Showing posts with label Bangladesh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bangladesh. Show all posts
Saturday, August 1, 2020
You Don't Have to Be Catholic to be Helped by Nuns
On the passing of John Lewis, the young 1963 Civil Rights leader who went on to represent Georgia in Congress for 33 years, one tribute mentioned nuns who administered a Selma, Alabama, hospital took care of him when he was beaten by police in 1965.
A female Muslim student wrote a prize-winning story about a nun, the principal of a college in Bangladesh, who saw she was absent, visited her family and arranged to help her continue her education after her unemployed father could no longer afford tuition. Shamima Sakendar's story is now a film, "The Soul," which can be viewed on Facebook and YouTube.
Taken together, these mentions of the unheralded contributions religious orders of women reminded me of the legally-trained nuns who represent immigrants in courts at the US border and the recently deceased Sister Carolyn Farrell, who had helped plan, at the invitation of Iowa's governor, the State's long-term goals. She also was elected to the City Council in Dubuque, Iowa, in 1977 and became mayor in 1980, since Council members held that office on a rotating basis.
The work nuns do in Africa is extremely important. To prevent young women from being lured into the human trafficking trade, nuns in Bukoba, Tanzania, help students become self-sufficient in a 3-year sewing program. At graduation, they receive their own sewing machines.
Since 1989, nuns in Kampala Uganda, have provided a home for as many as 30 abandoned babies and children under five at a time. When mothers die in childbirth after traveling long distances to deliver their newborns, relatives often cannot be found to care for the babies. In other cases, women flee from abusive husbands who are left with children they don't want, husbands leave to seek work in cities or abroad and never return and friends and relatives shun women and children who are HIV positive. With help from volunteers, the nuns carry the babies, sleep with them and maintain a cow and chickens to provide milk and eggs to feed them. The nuns try to find caring relatives by posting children's photos in local newspaper ads. If no relatives are found and the children have not been adopted by age 6, they are transferred to a children's home and then a group home until they can support themselves.
As carbon dioxide's greenhouse gases continue to raise the Earth's temperatures, the organic farming practices of nuns in drought-ridden Chilanga, Zambia, provide a valuable example of how to produce a variety of indigenous fruits, cabbage, kale, maize, tomatoes, onions and beans as well as how to raise cows, goats and chickens. By drilling a borehole, the nuns were able to install an irrigation system to spray water over crops. They also use manure as organic fertilizer and crop rotation to keep from depleting soil nutrients. Mixing crops grown on the farm helps control insect damage.
Without becoming Catholic, people around the world benefit from the care nuns provide.
Saturday, July 7, 2018
What Happens When the World's Children Leave Home?
In the news lately, I've been struck by the growing number of children who are with parents fleeing their home countries, who wish they could escape their home countries, who attend schools in a different country, or who just seek foreign adventures.
Brazil's super model, Gisele Bundchen, left her country and married the U.S. New England Patriots quarterback, Tom Brady. Nowadays, nearly two-thirds of those in Brazil's 16-34 year old age population also want to leave the country, even if they aren't leaving to marry a foreign celebrity. Their motivation: escape from a slumping economy, from corruption, and from a lack of police security.
In the recent migration from Mexico and Central America, parents brought as many as 3000 children to the United States also to escape violence, gangs, and rape and to find economic opportunities.
Children among the six million refugees fleeing Syria try to escape the bombs, poisoned gas, and starvation inflicted on their families by the dictator, Bashar al-Assad.
Children also are among the Muslim Rohingya refugees who have fled from Myanmar to Bangladesh to avoid violence in their home country or from Yemen to get away from air attacks.
In Nigeria, terrorists chase women and children from their villages to rape and attack them with knives.
Latest numbers show more than 600,000 students left China last year to study in the West. Many were avoiding, not violence, but the gaokao, a test that values memorization and determines who enters China's top universities.
Was it a youthful quest for adventure that caused 12 Thai boys and their soccer coach to ignore flood warnings and endanger their lives and those of their potential rescuers when they became trapped in a cave between Thailand and Myanmar? One of the boys showed he was a good student when he understood a British rescuer's question about how many were trapped and responded, "13," in English. Two were the first to make it out undertaking a dangerous, submerged two-mile route.
Displaced populations pose a host of problems.They might indicate destabilization in the countries they are fleeing, and they place a burden on the services provided by host countries. Unless new arrivals are accepted and integrated into the host country's population, rising nationalism leads to protests against the government and the immigrants, especially if refugees look different, profess a different religion, and have a different ethnic heritage.
Nuns who work with refugees in the U.S. expect to see victims of violence and those who have suffered the trauma of long journeys, often on foot, who need counseling. Some new arrivals are afraid to go out alone because they are not used to being able to trust anyone. They are amazed when they receive donations of clothing, toys, diapers, and even furniture, such as cribs, from strangers.
Shelters know they need to provide legal services for asylum seekers and bond for detained refugees navigating foreign court systems, where their next court dates might be three years away. When cases are not settled in 180 days in the U.S., attorneys know immigrants are entitled to work permits that enable them to find jobs to support themselves and their families. Asylum used to be granted in the U.S., if someone were escaping domestic or gang violence, but only persecution because of race, religion, political opinion, nationality, or membership in certain groups applies now.
Besides legal aid, families need help learning the local language. Nuns in a U.S. shelter try to make a new language fun by letting children write English words with their fingers in shaving cream. Then, there is the help needed to enroll children in schools, to apply for health services, and to become a member of a religious congregation.
In shelters, nuns see people begin to develop confidence about living among those who speak different languages and have different cultural practices. I remember reading about displaced families from Syria who left where they had been settled in rural Baltic States that provided creature comforts to slip into Germany, where they could join the others who had been settled there and shared their Muslim Arabic culture.
Practices that would seem OK in a home country might be objectionable in a host country. Smoking, spitting, stealing, and getting drunk can fall into that category. Players who join teams from other countries often need to be schooled in the ways of their new countries. For example, women in the U.S. object when Latin baseball players yell, "Hey, chickee babie."
Brazil's super model, Gisele Bundchen, left her country and married the U.S. New England Patriots quarterback, Tom Brady. Nowadays, nearly two-thirds of those in Brazil's 16-34 year old age population also want to leave the country, even if they aren't leaving to marry a foreign celebrity. Their motivation: escape from a slumping economy, from corruption, and from a lack of police security.
In the recent migration from Mexico and Central America, parents brought as many as 3000 children to the United States also to escape violence, gangs, and rape and to find economic opportunities.
Children among the six million refugees fleeing Syria try to escape the bombs, poisoned gas, and starvation inflicted on their families by the dictator, Bashar al-Assad.
Children also are among the Muslim Rohingya refugees who have fled from Myanmar to Bangladesh to avoid violence in their home country or from Yemen to get away from air attacks.
In Nigeria, terrorists chase women and children from their villages to rape and attack them with knives.
Latest numbers show more than 600,000 students left China last year to study in the West. Many were avoiding, not violence, but the gaokao, a test that values memorization and determines who enters China's top universities.
Was it a youthful quest for adventure that caused 12 Thai boys and their soccer coach to ignore flood warnings and endanger their lives and those of their potential rescuers when they became trapped in a cave between Thailand and Myanmar? One of the boys showed he was a good student when he understood a British rescuer's question about how many were trapped and responded, "13," in English. Two were the first to make it out undertaking a dangerous, submerged two-mile route.
Displaced populations pose a host of problems.They might indicate destabilization in the countries they are fleeing, and they place a burden on the services provided by host countries. Unless new arrivals are accepted and integrated into the host country's population, rising nationalism leads to protests against the government and the immigrants, especially if refugees look different, profess a different religion, and have a different ethnic heritage.
Nuns who work with refugees in the U.S. expect to see victims of violence and those who have suffered the trauma of long journeys, often on foot, who need counseling. Some new arrivals are afraid to go out alone because they are not used to being able to trust anyone. They are amazed when they receive donations of clothing, toys, diapers, and even furniture, such as cribs, from strangers.
Shelters know they need to provide legal services for asylum seekers and bond for detained refugees navigating foreign court systems, where their next court dates might be three years away. When cases are not settled in 180 days in the U.S., attorneys know immigrants are entitled to work permits that enable them to find jobs to support themselves and their families. Asylum used to be granted in the U.S., if someone were escaping domestic or gang violence, but only persecution because of race, religion, political opinion, nationality, or membership in certain groups applies now.
Besides legal aid, families need help learning the local language. Nuns in a U.S. shelter try to make a new language fun by letting children write English words with their fingers in shaving cream. Then, there is the help needed to enroll children in schools, to apply for health services, and to become a member of a religious congregation.
In shelters, nuns see people begin to develop confidence about living among those who speak different languages and have different cultural practices. I remember reading about displaced families from Syria who left where they had been settled in rural Baltic States that provided creature comforts to slip into Germany, where they could join the others who had been settled there and shared their Muslim Arabic culture.
Practices that would seem OK in a home country might be objectionable in a host country. Smoking, spitting, stealing, and getting drunk can fall into that category. Players who join teams from other countries often need to be schooled in the ways of their new countries. For example, women in the U.S. object when Latin baseball players yell, "Hey, chickee babie."
Saturday, March 10, 2018
China's Plan for World Domination
What developing country could resist participating in China's One Belt One Road (OBOR) and Maritime Silk Road (MSR) initiatives to construct roads, railroads, bridges, and power plants that would enable a rural exodus to jobs in urban centers, employ the unemployed, stimulate manufacturing, and facilitate trade? What developed country could resist participating in the financial enterprise of investing in China's estimated $1 trillion to $8 trillion project?
That's the good news. Students are challenged to activate their critical thinking to anticipate, and even suggest solutions for, the problems that have and will develop along these routes.
Finance: Traditionally, the international financial institutions charged with funding major projects include the World Bank, dominated by the United States; the International Monetary Fund (IMF), whose president comes from Europe; and the Asian Development Bank headed by a president from Japan. Because the funding process of these institutions was considered too slow and the required plan preparation was too costly, a New Development Bank, Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB), and Silk Road Fund were established to pick up the pace.
Since then, the Islamic Development Bank has agreed to jointly finance African projects with the AIIB, and Japanese, British, and US banks also are looking into ways to cooperate with China. Japan and the United States did not join the AIIB, because they suspected the bank would lack concern about labor, environmental sustainability, and requirements for democratic reform, since China considers all political systems equal and claims not to interfere with a recipient's sovereignty. As it has turned out, the AIIB is careful to abide by international norms, but the bank seems to retain its image by avoiding involvement with One Belt, One Road (OBOR) projects.
After World War II, the Marshall Plan helped rebuild a Europe that had existed. China's One Belt, One Road plan attempts to build something that never existed before what exits is ready to use it. As a result, Chinese development projects and financing bury recipients, such as Angola and Zambia, in debt. Half the countries in sub-Sahara Africa now have public debt greater than half their GDPs. There is growing concern about the raw materials, state power utilities, and other compensation China might require in case of loan defaults. Sri Lanka already was asked to share intelligence about traffic passing through its now bankrupt and Chinese-seized port. Zambia's default on a Chinese loan repayment resulted in immediate discussions that could lead to seizure of Zambia's electric company, ZESCO. The following eight countries have been singled out as in danger of assuming too great a Chinese debt burden: Laos, Kyrgyzstan, the Maldives, Montenegro, Djibouti, Tajikistan, Mongolia, and Pakistan.
Pakistan's new prime minister, Imran Khan, found out countries cannot escape hard financial realities. Fed up with "hand outs from the West," Pakistan hoped to avoid the scrutiny of loan requests submitted to the IMF. But even China, in the process of using Pakistan to gain access to the mineral riches in Afghanistan's mountains and to encircle India with its OBOR projects, balked at loaning funds to cover the $10 billion Pakistan needs for the next few month's fuel imports and foreign debt repayments. Saudi Arabia only offered to consider investing in the $60 billion China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC), the part of China's OBOR that includes a deep water port at Gwadar, Pakistan, and a major dam at Karot on the Pakistan-India-Chinese border. Now that the IMF is evaluating Pakistan's loan application, China also faces scrutiny of the secret terms of its CPEC contracts.
Reminiscent of the way Britain achieved control over the Suez Canal, China is creating influence and economic dependency in a wide swath of territory. With complex partnerships, including with the developing countries themselves, and enormous amounts of money at risk, diverse financial instruments handle equity participation, public-private partnerships, insurance, loan guarantees, debt instruments, first-loss equity, challenge funds, grants, and project preparation support. In cases of shared risk, allocating amounts to partners is challenging. Reducing risks also requires staff to monitor project progress and maximize the speed of fixing mistakes. At any time, China can call in loans for non-payment.
Political conflict: Beijing's Maritime Silk Road includes the deep water port China is building at Gwadar, Pakistan, to gain access to the Arabian Sea and avoid shipping oil farther east through the congested Malacca Straight. From Gwadar, China plans a route north and east toward the Karot hydroelectric power plant on the Jhelum River southeast of Islamabad and into China's Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, China, which already uses facial recognition technology to track 2.5 million in its Xinjiang province, also would gain another way to control the restive Uighur Muslim minority that lives among the Chinese Han majority. Since China's President Xi Jinping came to power in 2012, he has pushed the idea that China's atheistic political system should be considered just as valid, especially for maintaining China's peace and security, as the governments of any other countries.
Try as hard as it might, however, the Chinese Communist Party has been unable to squelch Muslim Uighurs, but also Christians and Taoists in Chengdu's panda-breeding city and Buddhists in Tibet (as well as democracy activists in Hong Kong and Taiwan). More than a million Uighurs are said to be confined in re-education camps. Increased surveillance using facial recognition, AI, and computer monitoring systems tries to catch violations. Rather than be shut out of a major market, even Google was poised to develop a "Dragonfly" search engine that would meet China's censorship requirements by excluding keywords, such as Tiananmen, until its employees refused to compromise their ethics in order to work on the project.
A part of the Pakistan to China road also passes through Kashmir, the primarily Muslim site of a territorial dispute between the nuclear powers, Pakistan and Hindu India. For the first time in 30 years, the Kashmir flash point came under a major attack in February, 2019, when a suicide bomber from Pakistan killed 40 of India's security forces. To further complicate border tensions, Saudi Arabia's crown prince, Muhammad bin Salman, who is accused of directing the murder of journalist, Jamal Khashoggi, seemed to challenge China's influence in the area by visiting with a promise to invest in Pakistan and India.
Thus far, India's military buildup, economic shortfalls in the region, and ethnic/religious conflict have prevented Beijing from surrounding India. The two countries, India and China, already needed to resolve a 2017 border dispute by establishing a hotline between them. With the launch of its Arihant submarine in November, 2018, India enhanced its military capability in the area by adding sea-based, short-range nuclear missiles capable of reaching China and Pakistan to its air- and land-based missile systems.
In the south, the Indian Ocean's strategic Maldive Islands ousted China's hand-picked president. Under former President Yameen, Chinese influence had started to replace the protection India provided after the Maldives and India achieved independence from Britain. Millions in low interest Chinese loans began funding construction of a bridge from the Maldive capital in Male to the main airport, as well as housing and a hospital that could support a naval base. Saudi Arabia also has showed interest in the Maldive atolls and constructed a major mosque there.
Beijing's effort to eliminate the need to import oil through the congested Malacca Straight also moves China closer to India in the southeast. China plans to construct a road-rail-pipeline corridor through Myanmar, from its Shan state in the east to a port on the Bay of Bengal in the Rakhine state on the Bangladesh border. The Chinese conglomerate constructing the port is financing 70% of the project, but Myanmar is hard-pressed to fund its 30%, much less the rest of the country-wide project. Myanmar's Buddhist government and military face warring factions: the Muslim Rohingyas; the Arakan Army of Buddhist Rakhine that opposes the Burman-dominated Buddhist government; and the Northern Alliance Brotherhood, a coalition of insurgents from Kachin and Shan states.
In Central Asia, China runs into conflict with Russia, especially in resource-rich Kazakhstan, sometimes called the buckle of the new Silk Road.
The South China Sea finds China challenged by the United States, Japan, the Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, and Brunei. Of course, there is a chance that rising waters on the overheated planet may swamp the atolls, small islands, and reefs China has militarized there, as well as in the Maldives in the Indian Ocean.
Finally, any country's government can stall, kill, or seize a project on China's land and sea routes. History recalls how France and England struggled to build and finance the Suez Canal only to have Gamal Nasser seize it in the spirit of anti-colonial nationalism. Three months into his new position, after defeating Chinese-backed Najib Razak, Malaysia's new, 93-year-old prime minister, Dr. Mahathir Mohamad, termed Chinese loans Chinese "colonialism." He traveled to Beijing to cancel the previous government's $20 billion agreement to let China build a high speed railway and two oil pipelines. China may have a way to regain these contracts, however. Malaysia is eager to prosecute Jho Low, the Malaysian mastermind behind a plot that misappropriated funds raised by three bond offerings Goldman Sachs underwrote for a Malaysian wealth fund. China could offer to turn over Mr. Low in exchange for the resumption of the cancelled projects. To block a Chinese-financed upscale Malaysian housing project wealthy Chinese investors, but not most Malaysians, could afford, Dr. Mohamad said Malaysia would not grant visas for foreigners to live there. Anwar Ibrahim is expected to replace Mahathir Mohamad, when he resigns as prime minister.
Sierra Leone's new president, Julius Maada Bio, canceled the previous administration's contract for the Chinese-financed Mamamah International Airport. As the country's aviation ministry observed, construction of a new airport would be uneconomical when the existing one is underutilized.
China also experienced opposition, when Nepal referred a Chinese project to review by anti-corruption watchdogs. Feeling overextended, Pakistan shut down projects on the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor Beijing views as its access to the Arabian Sea. It seeks more lending from China instead of an IMF loan. Even at home, Chinese citizens are beginning to view potential defaults on loans, especially to Africa, as foreign aid better used to finance domestic needs.
Environment: Constructing roads, railroads, bridges, and power plants has a major impact on the environment. At the same time cutting trees to make way for roads, rails, and tunnels, and laying thousands of miles of concrete invite flooding by eliminating anchors for soil and ground to absorb rain, increased truck and car traffic and the added heat from burning fossil fuels to generate electricity from power plants will warm the planet and increase the need for trees to absorb greenhouse gases.
Railroad projects in Kenya and seaport construction at Walvis Bay, Namibia, led locals to demand protection for wild life. China remains a major market for the ivory and rhino horn poachers obtain by killing Africa's elephants and rhino.
Infrastructure projects also can be expected to encounter objections from non-governmental organizations (NGOs) with environmental, as well as religious, human rights, and other concerns.
Employment: With a population of 1.4 billion people, China is in a position to provide all the skilled and unskilled labor needed to design, engineer, construct, administer, staff, monitor, and maintain its OBOR and MSR projects. Should governments along these routes expect China to employ their countries' unemployed, China will see no need to pay desirable wages nor to establish exemplary working conditions. Experience in Africa shows China's railroad projects have generated protests over poor pay and treatment. African construction companies even have seen contracts to build government buildings go to Chinese firms instead of local ones. Also, African industries and shop owners that expected to benefit from Chinese-financed roads and rails have found themselves unable to compete with cheaper Chinese imports.
What cannot be ignored is how the hundreds of migrant workers employed on China's widespread infrastructure projects could pose a major threat of disease transmission, especially of AIDS. Despite the attempt of Chinese managers to confine workers to monitored compounds, employees likely will be determined to find ways to meet local women.
Looking at topographical maps will give students an idea of the challenges of constructing routes through mountains, forests, and deserts and over rivers. (The earlier post, "All Aboard for China's African Railroads," describes problems of terrain, as well as financial and other problems, that can arise with projects in developing countries.) All in all, watching the progress along China's One Belt One Road and Maritime Silk Road will give students an interesting learning experience for years to come.
That's the good news. Students are challenged to activate their critical thinking to anticipate, and even suggest solutions for, the problems that have and will develop along these routes.
Finance: Traditionally, the international financial institutions charged with funding major projects include the World Bank, dominated by the United States; the International Monetary Fund (IMF), whose president comes from Europe; and the Asian Development Bank headed by a president from Japan. Because the funding process of these institutions was considered too slow and the required plan preparation was too costly, a New Development Bank, Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB), and Silk Road Fund were established to pick up the pace.
Since then, the Islamic Development Bank has agreed to jointly finance African projects with the AIIB, and Japanese, British, and US banks also are looking into ways to cooperate with China. Japan and the United States did not join the AIIB, because they suspected the bank would lack concern about labor, environmental sustainability, and requirements for democratic reform, since China considers all political systems equal and claims not to interfere with a recipient's sovereignty. As it has turned out, the AIIB is careful to abide by international norms, but the bank seems to retain its image by avoiding involvement with One Belt, One Road (OBOR) projects.
After World War II, the Marshall Plan helped rebuild a Europe that had existed. China's One Belt, One Road plan attempts to build something that never existed before what exits is ready to use it. As a result, Chinese development projects and financing bury recipients, such as Angola and Zambia, in debt. Half the countries in sub-Sahara Africa now have public debt greater than half their GDPs. There is growing concern about the raw materials, state power utilities, and other compensation China might require in case of loan defaults. Sri Lanka already was asked to share intelligence about traffic passing through its now bankrupt and Chinese-seized port. Zambia's default on a Chinese loan repayment resulted in immediate discussions that could lead to seizure of Zambia's electric company, ZESCO. The following eight countries have been singled out as in danger of assuming too great a Chinese debt burden: Laos, Kyrgyzstan, the Maldives, Montenegro, Djibouti, Tajikistan, Mongolia, and Pakistan.
Pakistan's new prime minister, Imran Khan, found out countries cannot escape hard financial realities. Fed up with "hand outs from the West," Pakistan hoped to avoid the scrutiny of loan requests submitted to the IMF. But even China, in the process of using Pakistan to gain access to the mineral riches in Afghanistan's mountains and to encircle India with its OBOR projects, balked at loaning funds to cover the $10 billion Pakistan needs for the next few month's fuel imports and foreign debt repayments. Saudi Arabia only offered to consider investing in the $60 billion China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC), the part of China's OBOR that includes a deep water port at Gwadar, Pakistan, and a major dam at Karot on the Pakistan-India-Chinese border. Now that the IMF is evaluating Pakistan's loan application, China also faces scrutiny of the secret terms of its CPEC contracts.
Reminiscent of the way Britain achieved control over the Suez Canal, China is creating influence and economic dependency in a wide swath of territory. With complex partnerships, including with the developing countries themselves, and enormous amounts of money at risk, diverse financial instruments handle equity participation, public-private partnerships, insurance, loan guarantees, debt instruments, first-loss equity, challenge funds, grants, and project preparation support. In cases of shared risk, allocating amounts to partners is challenging. Reducing risks also requires staff to monitor project progress and maximize the speed of fixing mistakes. At any time, China can call in loans for non-payment.
Political conflict: Beijing's Maritime Silk Road includes the deep water port China is building at Gwadar, Pakistan, to gain access to the Arabian Sea and avoid shipping oil farther east through the congested Malacca Straight. From Gwadar, China plans a route north and east toward the Karot hydroelectric power plant on the Jhelum River southeast of Islamabad and into China's Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, China, which already uses facial recognition technology to track 2.5 million in its Xinjiang province, also would gain another way to control the restive Uighur Muslim minority that lives among the Chinese Han majority. Since China's President Xi Jinping came to power in 2012, he has pushed the idea that China's atheistic political system should be considered just as valid, especially for maintaining China's peace and security, as the governments of any other countries.
Try as hard as it might, however, the Chinese Communist Party has been unable to squelch Muslim Uighurs, but also Christians and Taoists in Chengdu's panda-breeding city and Buddhists in Tibet (as well as democracy activists in Hong Kong and Taiwan). More than a million Uighurs are said to be confined in re-education camps. Increased surveillance using facial recognition, AI, and computer monitoring systems tries to catch violations. Rather than be shut out of a major market, even Google was poised to develop a "Dragonfly" search engine that would meet China's censorship requirements by excluding keywords, such as Tiananmen, until its employees refused to compromise their ethics in order to work on the project.
A part of the Pakistan to China road also passes through Kashmir, the primarily Muslim site of a territorial dispute between the nuclear powers, Pakistan and Hindu India. For the first time in 30 years, the Kashmir flash point came under a major attack in February, 2019, when a suicide bomber from Pakistan killed 40 of India's security forces. To further complicate border tensions, Saudi Arabia's crown prince, Muhammad bin Salman, who is accused of directing the murder of journalist, Jamal Khashoggi, seemed to challenge China's influence in the area by visiting with a promise to invest in Pakistan and India.
Thus far, India's military buildup, economic shortfalls in the region, and ethnic/religious conflict have prevented Beijing from surrounding India. The two countries, India and China, already needed to resolve a 2017 border dispute by establishing a hotline between them. With the launch of its Arihant submarine in November, 2018, India enhanced its military capability in the area by adding sea-based, short-range nuclear missiles capable of reaching China and Pakistan to its air- and land-based missile systems.
In the south, the Indian Ocean's strategic Maldive Islands ousted China's hand-picked president. Under former President Yameen, Chinese influence had started to replace the protection India provided after the Maldives and India achieved independence from Britain. Millions in low interest Chinese loans began funding construction of a bridge from the Maldive capital in Male to the main airport, as well as housing and a hospital that could support a naval base. Saudi Arabia also has showed interest in the Maldive atolls and constructed a major mosque there.
Beijing's effort to eliminate the need to import oil through the congested Malacca Straight also moves China closer to India in the southeast. China plans to construct a road-rail-pipeline corridor through Myanmar, from its Shan state in the east to a port on the Bay of Bengal in the Rakhine state on the Bangladesh border. The Chinese conglomerate constructing the port is financing 70% of the project, but Myanmar is hard-pressed to fund its 30%, much less the rest of the country-wide project. Myanmar's Buddhist government and military face warring factions: the Muslim Rohingyas; the Arakan Army of Buddhist Rakhine that opposes the Burman-dominated Buddhist government; and the Northern Alliance Brotherhood, a coalition of insurgents from Kachin and Shan states.
In Central Asia, China runs into conflict with Russia, especially in resource-rich Kazakhstan, sometimes called the buckle of the new Silk Road.
The South China Sea finds China challenged by the United States, Japan, the Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, and Brunei. Of course, there is a chance that rising waters on the overheated planet may swamp the atolls, small islands, and reefs China has militarized there, as well as in the Maldives in the Indian Ocean.
Finally, any country's government can stall, kill, or seize a project on China's land and sea routes. History recalls how France and England struggled to build and finance the Suez Canal only to have Gamal Nasser seize it in the spirit of anti-colonial nationalism. Three months into his new position, after defeating Chinese-backed Najib Razak, Malaysia's new, 93-year-old prime minister, Dr. Mahathir Mohamad, termed Chinese loans Chinese "colonialism." He traveled to Beijing to cancel the previous government's $20 billion agreement to let China build a high speed railway and two oil pipelines. China may have a way to regain these contracts, however. Malaysia is eager to prosecute Jho Low, the Malaysian mastermind behind a plot that misappropriated funds raised by three bond offerings Goldman Sachs underwrote for a Malaysian wealth fund. China could offer to turn over Mr. Low in exchange for the resumption of the cancelled projects. To block a Chinese-financed upscale Malaysian housing project wealthy Chinese investors, but not most Malaysians, could afford, Dr. Mohamad said Malaysia would not grant visas for foreigners to live there. Anwar Ibrahim is expected to replace Mahathir Mohamad, when he resigns as prime minister.
Sierra Leone's new president, Julius Maada Bio, canceled the previous administration's contract for the Chinese-financed Mamamah International Airport. As the country's aviation ministry observed, construction of a new airport would be uneconomical when the existing one is underutilized.
China also experienced opposition, when Nepal referred a Chinese project to review by anti-corruption watchdogs. Feeling overextended, Pakistan shut down projects on the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor Beijing views as its access to the Arabian Sea. It seeks more lending from China instead of an IMF loan. Even at home, Chinese citizens are beginning to view potential defaults on loans, especially to Africa, as foreign aid better used to finance domestic needs.
Environment: Constructing roads, railroads, bridges, and power plants has a major impact on the environment. At the same time cutting trees to make way for roads, rails, and tunnels, and laying thousands of miles of concrete invite flooding by eliminating anchors for soil and ground to absorb rain, increased truck and car traffic and the added heat from burning fossil fuels to generate electricity from power plants will warm the planet and increase the need for trees to absorb greenhouse gases.
Railroad projects in Kenya and seaport construction at Walvis Bay, Namibia, led locals to demand protection for wild life. China remains a major market for the ivory and rhino horn poachers obtain by killing Africa's elephants and rhino.
Infrastructure projects also can be expected to encounter objections from non-governmental organizations (NGOs) with environmental, as well as religious, human rights, and other concerns.
Employment: With a population of 1.4 billion people, China is in a position to provide all the skilled and unskilled labor needed to design, engineer, construct, administer, staff, monitor, and maintain its OBOR and MSR projects. Should governments along these routes expect China to employ their countries' unemployed, China will see no need to pay desirable wages nor to establish exemplary working conditions. Experience in Africa shows China's railroad projects have generated protests over poor pay and treatment. African construction companies even have seen contracts to build government buildings go to Chinese firms instead of local ones. Also, African industries and shop owners that expected to benefit from Chinese-financed roads and rails have found themselves unable to compete with cheaper Chinese imports.
What cannot be ignored is how the hundreds of migrant workers employed on China's widespread infrastructure projects could pose a major threat of disease transmission, especially of AIDS. Despite the attempt of Chinese managers to confine workers to monitored compounds, employees likely will be determined to find ways to meet local women.
Looking at topographical maps will give students an idea of the challenges of constructing routes through mountains, forests, and deserts and over rivers. (The earlier post, "All Aboard for China's African Railroads," describes problems of terrain, as well as financial and other problems, that can arise with projects in developing countries.) All in all, watching the progress along China's One Belt One Road and Maritime Silk Road will give students an interesting learning experience for years to come.
Tuesday, July 4, 2017
China's Manifest Destiny East, West, North, and South
Mainland China is not about to let Hong Kong stand in the way of its "Manifest Destiny" to the East. Despite the terms of the 1984 Sino-British treaty that ended colonial rule and prepared Hong Kong to become a semi-autonomous region of China on July 1, 1997, the island is unlikely to remain unchanged for 50 years. In fact, free elections ended three years ago. On June 30, 2017, a spokesman for China's foreign ministry said the mainland is no longer bound by the 1984 treaty.
On July 1, 2017, just before Hong Kong's annual march to commemorate the 1984 treaty, China's President Xi Jinping, on his first visit to the island, warned "Any attempt to endanger China's sovereignty and security, challenge the power of the central government...or use Hong Kong to carry out infiltration and sabotage activities against the mainland" is an "impermissible" way to cross a red line.
Martin Lee, who is known as Hong Kong's "father of democracy," observed money is all the Communist Party has. (Under Deng Xiaoping, China embraced striving for economic progress by the country and individuals.) It has no core values or principles of freedom, civil rights, or a rule of law.
He told the 60,000 or more pro-democracy protesters on July 1, "Even if our country will be the last in the entire world to reach that goal, we will still get there."
Meanwhile, China will continue to pursue its eastward quest to dominate the South China Sea and maintain control over its so-called semi-autonomous regions: Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan.
Activities involving India and Myanmar (Burma) also reveal China's interest in securing a strategic position in the West. Its Maritime Silk Road (road, bridge, and tunnel) project, estimated by the Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB) to cost at least $1.7 trillion per year through 2030, is designed to reconstruct the ancient Silk Road linking China to India. The hydroelectric dam China built on the Brahmaputra River gives Beijing control over the needed monsoon water that flows from Tibet through India and Bangladesh. And China's interest in securing access to the Bay of Bengal through Myanmar prevents Beijing from pressuring that country to severe its military ties to North Korea.
As for China's quests in the North and South, see the posts, "China Stakes a New Arctic Claim," China's plans for its Polar Silk Road in "Santa Opens Arctic for Business," and "China Is Everywhere in Africa."
On July 1, 2017, just before Hong Kong's annual march to commemorate the 1984 treaty, China's President Xi Jinping, on his first visit to the island, warned "Any attempt to endanger China's sovereignty and security, challenge the power of the central government...or use Hong Kong to carry out infiltration and sabotage activities against the mainland" is an "impermissible" way to cross a red line.
Martin Lee, who is known as Hong Kong's "father of democracy," observed money is all the Communist Party has. (Under Deng Xiaoping, China embraced striving for economic progress by the country and individuals.) It has no core values or principles of freedom, civil rights, or a rule of law.
He told the 60,000 or more pro-democracy protesters on July 1, "Even if our country will be the last in the entire world to reach that goal, we will still get there."
Meanwhile, China will continue to pursue its eastward quest to dominate the South China Sea and maintain control over its so-called semi-autonomous regions: Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan.
Activities involving India and Myanmar (Burma) also reveal China's interest in securing a strategic position in the West. Its Maritime Silk Road (road, bridge, and tunnel) project, estimated by the Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB) to cost at least $1.7 trillion per year through 2030, is designed to reconstruct the ancient Silk Road linking China to India. The hydroelectric dam China built on the Brahmaputra River gives Beijing control over the needed monsoon water that flows from Tibet through India and Bangladesh. And China's interest in securing access to the Bay of Bengal through Myanmar prevents Beijing from pressuring that country to severe its military ties to North Korea.
As for China's quests in the North and South, see the posts, "China Stakes a New Arctic Claim," China's plans for its Polar Silk Road in "Santa Opens Arctic for Business," and "China Is Everywhere in Africa."
Monday, January 9, 2017
Future Career Opportunities
For youngsters around the world, where they will work or launch a business seems many years away. Yet, thinking about what factors a country needs to offer employees and employers can begin at any age. Forbes magazine (December 21, 2016) helped the process of identifying "Best Countries for Business" by ranking 139 countries on a composite of factors including: taxes, innovation, technology, regulations, corruption, property rights, investor protection, per capita income, and trade balance. Other factors to consider might be: infrastructure; political stability; threat of terrorism; human rights of men, women, and children; and health conditions.
The Forbes ranking placed Sweden first and Chad last. At forbes.com/best-countries-for-business/list/, there is a brief evaluation of the business climate in each of the 139 counties listed. You can find out why a negative trade balance, regulations, government intervention in the housing and health insurance markets, budget deficits, and modest growth in Gross Domestic Product (GDP) positioned the United States 23rd among countries best for business.
Looking for future opportunities, I paid special attention to the 26 countries with economic GDP growth of 5% of more. Admittedly, countries with less developed economies may be able to show the greatest growth compared to countries with more developed economies, such as the US with 2.6% growth. Nonetheless, growth is an important factor to consider.
Best for Business GDP growth
Ranking
4 Ireland 26.3%
130 Ethiopia 10.2%
106 Cote d' Ivoire 8.5%
85 India 7.6%
134 Laos 7.6%
97 Dominican Republic 7.0%
122 Tanzania 7.0%
123 Cambodia 7.0%
78 Rwanda 6.9%
102 China 6.9%
133 Dem. Republic of Congo 6.9%
117 Bangladesh 6.8%
98 Vietnam 6.7%
113 Mozambique 6.6%
81 Senegal 6.5%
30 Malta 6.2%
109 Mali 6.0%
111 Tajikistan 6.0%
89 Philippines 5.9%
59 Panama 5.8%
128 Cameroon 5.8%
105 Kenya 5.6%
63 Namibia 5.3%
94 Bhutan 5.2%
44 Malaysia 5.0%
100 Benin 5.0%
Of these 26 countries, almost half are in Africa. Youngsters might keep their eyes on what these countries do to remedy the problems identified in their Forbes descriptions, since African countries might offer the best opportunities in the future.
The Forbes ranking placed Sweden first and Chad last. At forbes.com/best-countries-for-business/list/, there is a brief evaluation of the business climate in each of the 139 counties listed. You can find out why a negative trade balance, regulations, government intervention in the housing and health insurance markets, budget deficits, and modest growth in Gross Domestic Product (GDP) positioned the United States 23rd among countries best for business.
Looking for future opportunities, I paid special attention to the 26 countries with economic GDP growth of 5% of more. Admittedly, countries with less developed economies may be able to show the greatest growth compared to countries with more developed economies, such as the US with 2.6% growth. Nonetheless, growth is an important factor to consider.
Best for Business GDP growth
Ranking
4 Ireland 26.3%
130 Ethiopia 10.2%
106 Cote d' Ivoire 8.5%
85 India 7.6%
134 Laos 7.6%
97 Dominican Republic 7.0%
122 Tanzania 7.0%
123 Cambodia 7.0%
78 Rwanda 6.9%
102 China 6.9%
133 Dem. Republic of Congo 6.9%
117 Bangladesh 6.8%
98 Vietnam 6.7%
113 Mozambique 6.6%
81 Senegal 6.5%
30 Malta 6.2%
109 Mali 6.0%
111 Tajikistan 6.0%
89 Philippines 5.9%
59 Panama 5.8%
128 Cameroon 5.8%
105 Kenya 5.6%
63 Namibia 5.3%
94 Bhutan 5.2%
44 Malaysia 5.0%
100 Benin 5.0%
Of these 26 countries, almost half are in Africa. Youngsters might keep their eyes on what these countries do to remedy the problems identified in their Forbes descriptions, since African countries might offer the best opportunities in the future.
Friday, June 12, 2015
Uncover the Economic Value of Wood
We are used to valuing trees because they absorb greenhouse gases (See the earlier post, "A Healthy Environment.") and provide the shade other crops need to grow (See "Coffee Prices Going Up, Allowances Going Down?"). But at a recent 4H meeting of young people who enter their animals and agricultural projects in competitions at county fairs every year, one of the members demonstrated the value of trees after their growing days are finished. Seeing the bowl he had made out of a variety of local woods started members thinking.What happens to trees that are uprooted by wind and storms, trees that are removed to make room for roads, utility poles, and developers' projects, evergreen trees after Christmas, and all the area trees that have been removed because they were infested by the emerald ash borer insect? Some dead trees are used for firewood, but others just rot.
When my sister was in college, I remember she drove several students in one of her art classes to a lot that collected bits and pieces of wood. I have the statue she carved, sanded, and oiled to show, not only the form of a woman, but also the beautiful grain of the wood she used. Besides the grain of wood, the perfume of freshly sawn cherry tree logs first attracted the man who now owns a custom-made furniture business.
Beyond firewood, there is a market for useful and beautiful objects made from the world's sustainable and rotting wood. Leafing through a catalog from SERRV (serrv.org), I saw how artisans in the Philippines had turned coral tree and acacia wood into birdhouses and bowls, Bangladesh craftsmen had used albizia wood to make stools, and carvers in India had stained and transformed mango and shesham wood into tables. I've also read how a Mozambican wood carver sold an expensive three-foot-tall ebony sculpture to a tourist in Kenya.
Clearly, trees can play an important role in sopping up greenhouse gases that cause global warming, and wood products can boost a country's economy. A UN study concludes forest land the size of South Africa has disappeared since 1990. In square miles, an article in TIME magazine (September 28, 2015) shows deforested areas have been lost fastest annually since 2010 in the following countries: Brazil (3,799 square miles), Indonesia (2,641), Burma (2,108), Nigeria (1,583), and Tanzania (1,436). Before turning trees into logs for export, these countries and others need to consider how builders can use whole trees instead of steel to support structures and how an increase in their middle class populations represents the income potential of future furniture markets. Moreover, Global Witness and the Environmental Investigation Agency reports illegal logging of rosewood in Madagascar deprives the country of $460,000 a day. Illegal logging also has been used to fund conflicts in Liberia and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Kids might begin to get an appreciation of uses for wood by making craft projects out of Popsicle sticks. They might go on to think about finding jobs operating tractor-powered sawmills, learning how to dry wood, or if they would like to sell products made from wood. Who knows, some day they may be in a position to invite architects and planners to consider showcasing local woods in major projects. For more ideas about the use of wood, check wisconsinurbanwood.org.
Monday, May 11, 2015
Why Do They Hate Us?
Let's begin by recognizing that Indonesia, a country where 86% of its estimated 252,812,245 population is Muslim, is a democracy with a traditional commitment to religious diversity. Despite opposition from extremists, Time magazine (April 27/May 4, 2015) noted that Indonesia's President Joko Widodo appointed a Christian woman as a district chief in Jakarta. In other words, hate for the West is not an emotion shared by all Muslims.Zak Ebrahim, whose father murdered a militant Jewish Defense League rabbi and helped plan the first World Trade Center bombing in 1993, observed in his book, The Terrorist's Son, "murderous hatred has to be taught...forcibly implanted. It's not a naturally occurring phenomenon." It is, therefore, not to justify or condemn the feelings of Muslims who hate the West but to lay out the reasons Ebrahim's father, El-Sayyid Nosair, and those in Lawrence Wright's book, The Looming Tower: al-Qaeda and the Road to 9/11, give to explain why they hate the West.
Wright reminds us that Muslims went in two different directions after the death of Mohammed. The vast majority of Mohammed's followers are Sunnis who believe caliphs, Islamic clerics, should be elected. In contrast Shia Muslims, such as the Iranian Muslims who are Persians rather than Arabs, expected a hereditary caliphate, rule of Islamic clerics, to begin with Mohammed's cousin and son-in-law, Ali ibn Abi Talib. Within the Sunni majority, a fundamentalist subset of Salafists believe the only valid Islamic practices are the "early Muslim" (Salaf) ways followed during the time of Mohammed (See a description in the earlier blog post, "This We Believe."). In Egypt, Hasan al-Banna founded the Muslim Brothers in 1928 in order to form an Islamic state where the government, a Sharia legal code based on 500 immutable verses from the Quran, and lives would be centered on God. The Muslim Brotherhood came to be seen as a social service agency that provided jobs, schools, and hospitals and as an organization willing to achieve an Islamic state through the political process and compromise. Within the Brotherhood, a "secret apparatus," or army, also was formed to achieve this aim by violent means. The Ayatollah Ruhollan Khomeini, who formed a rigid theocratic state in the wealthy, modern country of Iran in 1979, sanctions this kind of terror and the use of the sword by warriors in a jihad, holy war, against infidels. Iran became a model for those who would impose religious dictatorships by force.
To devout Muslims, infidels are those who practice a full array of godless, immoral behavior: homosexuality, adultery, divorce, the sexual freedom of women who flirt and wear enticing colors, close male and female dancing, jazz that arouses primitive instincts, drinking liquor and drunkenness, racism, violent sports, individualism, and materialism. Muslims believe Islam will triumph over both capitalists and communists, because modernity in the West, rather than focusing all aspects of life on God, has separated the secular and sacred, mind and spirit, state and religion, and science and theology.
However, Muslim aspirations for forming an Islamic theocracy in Egypt were crushed by the secular regime of Gamal Abdul Nasser; Israel's swift victory in the 1967 Six Day War; and Anwar al-Sadat's secular democratic state, his ban on religious student organizations and traditional Islamic garb worn by university women, and Egypt's peace agreement with Israel. When a military plot to kill Sadat was successful in 1981, thousands were imprisoned in a 12th century dungeon where they were severely tortured. Among the prisoners was Ayman al-Zawahiri, a member of an underground cell that kept alive the idea of a jihad movement that would establish an Islamic state. When Zawahiri, who was a doctor, first went to Pakistan in 1980 to care for Afghan refugees who fled across the border following the Soviet invasion, he noted the training received by the Afghan freedom fighters or holy warriors, the "mujahideen," and how the area could serve as a base for recruiting an army of jihadists to take over Egypt and ultimately the West, considered to be the enabling force behind the Egyptian regime and state of Israel. Zawahiri's organization, which was strapped for money, would join forces with Osama bin Laden in the well financed al-Qaeda organization.
The divide between supporters of secular governments and Islamic theocracies shows itself in a variety of countries. In Bangladesh, the secular Shahbag movement squares off against Ansar al-Islam Bangladesh, a group with ties to al-Qaeda in India. Al-Qaeda is taking credit for the May 12, 2015 murder of Ananta Bijoy Dash, who wrote for the Free Mind website that promotes secularism in Bangladesh.. Earlier, other Bangladesh bloggers, Avijit Roy, Oyasiqur Rhaman, and Ahmed Rajib Haider also had been killed by young Islamic activists. Dash had told friends that he did not expect anyone to kill him in his home in Sylhet.
It should be noted that religion is not the only cause for the rise of what has become known as Islamic fundamentalism. Racism, and in some cases colonialism, has had an impact on non-whites.
In Egypt, for example, the poverty, disease, and illiteracy of the local population stood in stark contrast to the sporting clubs, hotels, bars, casinos, movie theatres, restaurants, and department stores that catered to the English upper classes and troops who began coming to Egypt when it became a British Protectorate in 1882. In fact, British troops continued to maintain a base in the Suez Canal Zone throughout half of the 20th century.
Thursday, January 22, 2015
Fashion As A Cottage (and Sustainable) Industry
Kids make beaded, rubberband, and knot bracelets at home. Adults make a living selling handmade wedding dresses, posters, furniture, and other items on the Etsy website (etsy.com).
In Pakistan, a fashion house has revived the 18rh century European "putting out" process in which textile entrepreneurs brought wool and flax to rural families who supplemented their farm incomes by turning raw materials into yarn and cloth. Using air and courier delivery systems, Pakistan's Shubinak, whose parent company, Looptex, is certified as a Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) manufacturer, sends samples, embroidery thread, materials, and color swatches to rural artisans who return finished goods for sale online and through outlets in Pakistan and Canada. In a month, households earn anywhere from 51 to 205 British pounds. Shubinak also has plans that go beyond engaging its artisan suppliers in piece work. The company aims to provide 5000 artisans with entrepreneurial skills and to invest in healthcare and childcare facilities.
Artisans trained in needlework and design by India's Self Help Enterprise (SHE) charity benefit from sales in London thanks to Buqa Woman, the not-for-profit unit of Buqa Couture. Money from sales of the SHE collection returns to India to fund women's education, village infrastructure projects, and welfare.
Recognizing that women make up 80% of garment workers worldwide, GAP developed the Personal Advancement and Career Enhancement (PACE) program that involves women in a variety of leadership, financial literacy, and legal training modules. From its initial program at India's garment manufacturer, Shahi Exports, GAP has taken 25,000 women through the PACE program at its affiliated factories around the world. Working with CARE International and Swasti-Health Resource Center, PACE now has gone beyond factories and into communities in Cambodia and India. Next, the program is scheduled to expand into Bangladesh, Haiti, and Indonesia.
By going to theguardian.com/sustainable-business/fashion, you can check up on fair business practices in the fashion industry and sign up to receive an exclusive member newsletter. You also can read about the Guardian's 2015 contest to find businesses that make a profit by helping people and the planet. Entry deadline is February 13, 2015.
In Pakistan, a fashion house has revived the 18rh century European "putting out" process in which textile entrepreneurs brought wool and flax to rural families who supplemented their farm incomes by turning raw materials into yarn and cloth. Using air and courier delivery systems, Pakistan's Shubinak, whose parent company, Looptex, is certified as a Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) manufacturer, sends samples, embroidery thread, materials, and color swatches to rural artisans who return finished goods for sale online and through outlets in Pakistan and Canada. In a month, households earn anywhere from 51 to 205 British pounds. Shubinak also has plans that go beyond engaging its artisan suppliers in piece work. The company aims to provide 5000 artisans with entrepreneurial skills and to invest in healthcare and childcare facilities.
Artisans trained in needlework and design by India's Self Help Enterprise (SHE) charity benefit from sales in London thanks to Buqa Woman, the not-for-profit unit of Buqa Couture. Money from sales of the SHE collection returns to India to fund women's education, village infrastructure projects, and welfare.Recognizing that women make up 80% of garment workers worldwide, GAP developed the Personal Advancement and Career Enhancement (PACE) program that involves women in a variety of leadership, financial literacy, and legal training modules. From its initial program at India's garment manufacturer, Shahi Exports, GAP has taken 25,000 women through the PACE program at its affiliated factories around the world. Working with CARE International and Swasti-Health Resource Center, PACE now has gone beyond factories and into communities in Cambodia and India. Next, the program is scheduled to expand into Bangladesh, Haiti, and Indonesia.
By going to theguardian.com/sustainable-business/fashion, you can check up on fair business practices in the fashion industry and sign up to receive an exclusive member newsletter. You also can read about the Guardian's 2015 contest to find businesses that make a profit by helping people and the planet. Entry deadline is February 13, 2015.
Tuesday, January 15, 2013
The World of Fashion
The World of Fashion
When designer Marc Jacobs, creative director of Louis Vuitton, was asked what fashion is, he said it was part of the art of living, just like books and good food. It is more. Contrary to those who consider fashion the trivial interest of people like the Kardashians, children who spend their free time making doll clothes might need to understand advanced technology. After all, New York's 2013 Toy Fair introduced Barbie wearing a "Digital Dress" that had a lighted touchscreen to let youngsters change designs. (This Barbie is now available for holiday giving in 2013.) In any case, sewing doll clothes can prepare children to make a number of significant contributions to their countries and the world. Anna Wintour, editor of U.S. Vogue, even was mentioned as a possible next U.S. ambassador to the U.K. or France.In England during World War II, the availability of new clothing was considered essential to maintaining civilian morale. While incendiary bombs and V-1 rockets were destroying the House of Commons, homes, and water mains, the Board of Trade authorized the use of scarce material for easy-to-mass-produce stylish clothing. Next summer, as part of the celebration commemorating the 60th anniversary of Queen Elizabeth's coronation, British fashion designers who dress the Royal Family have been invited to present a style show in the garden at Buckingham Palace.
Museums note the importance of fashion by mounting exhibits devoted to textiles and clothing. The current "Interwoven Globe" exhibit that runs through January 5, 2014 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City features fabrics and garments that influenced cultures around the world when they were traded from 1500 to 1800. A catalogue for this exhibition is available from store.metmuseum.org. During the U.S. African American History Month in February, 2013, exhibits devoted to the meaning and designs of the kente cloth woven by the Asante and Ewe peoples of Ghana, Africa, were on display in Washington, D.C. at the Smithsonian Institute's National Museum of African Art and at its Arts & Industries Building.
In her book, All We Know, Lisa Cohen, through the eyes of Madge Garland, former editor of British Vogue, tells how English designers were urged to raise funds for the war effort and to pay off debt after World War II by creating couture collections for export to North and South America. Familiarity with the names Dior and Chanel and Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Gucci, Pucci, Prada, Versace, and Missoni indicate France and Italy also recognize the importance of fashion exports. Not satisfied to export its fashions to foreign outlets, Japanese-based Uniqlo (unique clothing) opened its own stores to sell its private label brand thoughout Asia and in the U.S. and France. In 2015, Uniqlo also partnered with Muslim fashion blogger, Hana Tajima, to market a "modest wear collection" of headscarves and dresses.
The U.S. promotes its couture for domestic and international consumption at New York Fashion Weeks, such as the one from Feb. 6 to Feb. 14, 2013 this year. According to trendwatching.com, new countries are entering the global haute couture market as well. These include China's Zhang Zhifeng's NE-TIGER brand, Masaba Gupta's animal print saris from India, and the Brazilian-California fusion styles of the Osklen fashion house. Trendwatching.com also reports Brazil exports its Amazonas Sandals, made from 80% recycled material and raw material from native rubber trees, to China.
Brazil's sandals are just one indication that fashion has developed a social conscience. Although some designers still work with real fur, once People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) raised awareness of how animals are raised and the way their pelts are collected, other designers stopped using fur or switched to faux fur. The problem is few people are aware that coats that include less than $150 worth of real animal fur can be labeled faux fir. That means a so-called faux fur garment may include the skins of 30 rabbits, 3 raccoons, 3 red foxes, 3 dogs, or a bear. German sculptor, Iris Schieferstein, draws attention to the way people use and abuse animals by incorporating animal parts from animals that have died of natural causes into her shoe, hat, and umbrella designs. You might see Lady Gaga wearing Schieferstein's hoof shoes made from hoofs reclaimed from a butcher shop.
Designers in the small island of Sri Lanka, who exhibited at the International Fashion Showcase during London's Fashion Week (February, 2013), are determined to make their country a regional center of sustainable fashion. They foster the use of fabric waste, green manufacturing processes, and the incorporation of handmade traditional crafts in their designs.
Kids for Kids (kidsforkidsfashion.com) sells T-shirts printed with artwork created by orphans and underprivileged children in lesser developed countries and then donates 10% of sale revenue to the organizations that support these little artists. Brazil's Vitoria soccer club changed its usual black and red striped uniforms to black and white to support a blood drive. The website, trendwatching.com, reported the shirts will gradually return to all red and black during the 2012/2013 soccer season, when red replaces white to show blood donation targets are being met.
Organizations, such as the International Labour Organization and Conservation International, are now working to guarantee "economically marginalized" artisans a fair price, to eliminate child labor, and to protect the environment. WFTOMarket.com, a website of the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO), lists items available to wholesalers from worldwide sources that pay fair prices and operate under safe and healthy working conditions. In North America, the Fair Trade Federation is an association of members that subscribe to WFTO objectives. Before they buy scarves and jewelry, for example, young and older shoppers can look for the WFTO and Fair Trade Federation symbols on catalogs from organizations, such as SERRV International (serrv.org).
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is just beginning to get clothing companies, such as Gap, Adidas, Nike, Target, North Face, and Timberland, interested in: reducing the billions of pounds of apparel that end up in landfills, finding substitutes for the pesticides that run off into and contaminate water supplies, eliminating the use of harmful chemicals (coffee grounds can be used as dyes), cutting water consumed in production (cotton is a water intensive crop;1,600 gallons of water can be used to produce a single pair of jeans), and decreasing the energy used to manufacture and transport clothing. Eventually, SAC's Higg Index, higher for the most eco-friendly goods, could appear on clothing hang tags and be approved by the U.S. government.
Livia Firth, the wife of actor Colin Firth, issued a "Green Carpet Challenge" to the top fashion designers who dress celebrity clients. Working under humane conditions, she asked what haute couture styles they could produce from things like upcycled plastic, discarded ostrich feathers, and fabric remnants. Firth herself has been seen wearing a rubber cuff bracelet made from an old tire and a patchwork jacket made from recycled tweed. Rising to Firth's "Green Carpet Challenge" at the Academy Awards on February 24, 2013, Vivienne Westwood and Michael Badger, the Ghanaian student she mentors, dressed "Skyfall" actress, Naomi Harris, is a gown that incorporated chocolate candy wrappers and reclaimed beads and zippers in its design. Dye from non-chemical goldenrod and chamomile gave the gown its mustard yellow color.
As Barbie's "Digital Dress" suggests, technology students are finding applications for their skills in the fashion industry. Some work with nanoparticles no bigger than a billionth of a meter to give fabrics stain proof properties. Others have come up with quick-drying textiles, thin insulation for coats and gloves, cool material that stretches vertically and diagonally, and fabrics that shun perspiration. On another front, in the future we are likely to see more garments designed and made of materials created by the 3D printing process.
One way to keep up with the latest developments in the fashion world is to check into fashionobserved.braveblog.com from time to time. More up-to-date information on sustainable/ethical clothes is available at ecouterre.com. Lately, ecouterre is reporting that marine litter, such as used fishing nets, is being recycled as socks and swimwear. After the collapse of the Bangladesh clothing factory that killed up to 900 workers, ecouterre reminded consumers to continue to patronize the country's ethical fashion companies, such as People Tree, Tulsi Crafts, Bachhara, Bhalo, and KAARU.
Like a corset in the jazz age, clothes can be out of fashion, if they fail to reflect not only current tastes, but also economic and political conditions. Every since Pope Francis was elected, news coverage about him has noted how he expresses humility and concern for the poor by wearing an iron cross instead of a gold one and how he has dispensed with ermine-trimmed capelets and caps. Similarily, foreign policy experts might gain some useful clues by observing countries where women stop wearing head scarves and military leaders switch to business suits.
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Fashion Forward
Before discounting fashion as a trivial subject, consider how exploring closets and underwear drawers can lead children to a map and to ask questions about why their clothes are made in certain countries. Checking labels and listing where clothes are made can lead to a worldwide map search for all the countries that manufacture a child's outfits and accessories.Kelsey Timmerman's interest in the economic conditions, wages, and working conditions in countries that produced his clothes motivated him to travel to Bangladesh, Cambodia, and China to see the factories where his underwear, jeans, and flip-flops were made. The record of his journey, Where Am I Wearing?, is a thoughtful discussion of the people and countries that depend on textile jobs and the options consumers have for buying these goods. In the aftermath of the clothing factory collapse that killed more than 1000 workers in Bangladesh, where 75% of the country's exports are textiles, ecouterre.com reminded customers not to boycott clothing produced in Bangladesh and listed some of the responsible companies operating there. After the April 24, 2013 factory collapse, ecouterre.com also reported that Abercrombie & Fitch and the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger brands signed an Accord on Fire & Building Safety in Bangladesh. Walmart, which announced it would fund a project to develop labor standards for the country, is among the retailers, including Target and Macy's, that have not signed the Accord.
There are organizations that are devoted to distributing clothing and accessories produced by workers paid and treated fairly in developing countries. Although there is no third party fair trade certification program for apparel, Fair Indigo has several small shops that sell "sweatshop-free" clothing in the United States. Baby sleepers and baby clothing made of 100% pure organic cotton from a worker-owned cooperative in Lima, Peru, are available through Fair Indigo's catalog (800-520-1806 or fairindigo.com).
SERRV is an organization that helps artisans in developing countries maximize profits from their crafts. Among the many items featured in the SERRV catalog (serrv.org) are knitted mittens, scarves, and hats from Nepal; headbands from Vietnam; and jewelry from Swaziland, Mali, the Philippines, Indonesia, Chile, and Peru.
Museum gift shops are good sources of interesting alternatives to heavily advertised mall fashions. Locally, you might find a beaded ponytail band from South Africa, a handstitched story purse from Peru, or a woven backpack from Mexico that is the perfect present for a little girl who likes to start fashion trends.
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Introduction
National boundaries fail to shield today's children from the rest of the world's languages, religions, and drug traffickiing. Back in 1939, when isolationists were determined to keep the United States out of World War II, Senator Arthur Vandenberg thanked God for the protection of "two insulating oceans." Nowadays, neither the Atlantic nor the Pacific prevents global communication and terrorism from bringing the wide world home. When one billion people are international travelers every year, oceans no longer insulate anyone from tuberculosis or mosquito-borne diseases like the Zika virus. Neither can lines on a map limit where today's young people will work, the cultures they will share, nor the problems they will solve.
Globalization requires an international, interconnected perspective. Children who have lived outside the country where they were born already may possess the cosmopolitan savvy to feel comfortable wherever they are plopped down in the world. But stay-at-home kids need not cede to their well traveled cohorts the feeling of being comfortable with foreign cultures, knowledge of world geography, the will to deal with environmental challenges, or decisions about war and peace. Teachers and parents now have access to resources at home and on the Internet that enable them to help young people acquire both a taste for what the world has to offer and confidence that they can contribute something to the world.
My granddaughter's interest in Italy began with mythology. She knows everything about chimeras. These three-part lion, goat, and serpent creatures terrorized Asia Minor until a hero riding on Pegasus killed one. When my granddaughter learned there was a bronze chimera statue in Florence, that city became her dream destination. Although she has yet to travel outside the United States, she took me directly to a book store's language section and showed me the Italian workbook and interactive CD-ROM she wanted for her birthday. Mythology, art, and language combined to widen my granddaughter's view of the world. In a similar way, young athletes might develop their international perspective after watching the Olympics in London this summer. For other children, a foreign coin, a "Made in Bangladesh" clothing label, or a musical rainstick could stimulate interest in their world. This global awareness is what my blog is designed to foster.
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