Fashion's Open Door

Two ideas Robin Givhan presents in her new book, The Battle of Versailles, should encourage designers in lesser developed countries to enter the fashion industry. She traces the history of fashion from one-of-a-kind haute couture styles dictated by the French monarchy to ready-to-wear separates women find practical and a freeing way to express their own style. The fashion industry Givhan describes today is: 1) a global business and 2) in a constant state of flux. The earlier blog post, "The World of Fashion," already mentioned designers in China, Brazil, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh, as well as France, the UK, Germany, USA, and Japan.

     New designers have a wide open opportunity to introduce their own new looks. Earlier blog posts mention jewelry makers (See "Fashion Forward.") and textile weavers (See "International Fashion Designers Find Consumer Niches," "Fashion As a Cottage (and Sustainable) Industry," and "The Continuing Battle of Good and Evil.") who are uniquely suited to work together to create coordinating pieces, such as the Versace-designed emerald green necklace and gown Scarlett Johansson wore to the 2015 Academy Awards or the geometric necklace Project Runway finalist, Amanda Valentine, created to complement her color-blocked maxi dress. Chico's, the retailer known to feature jewelry inspired by the clothes it sells, might be ready to feature just such items.

     Taaluma (a Swahili word meaning "profession") is a company that has combined travel and fashion. On trips to Guatemala, Indonesia, Mali, Bhutan, and Nepal (recently suffering from a major earthquake), explorers from Taaluma (carryacountry.com): 1) purchased traditional fabrics, 2) made these textiles into backpacks, and 3) donated a portion of the proceeds back to the countries' organizations.

     Fashion also has become interested in protecting the planet. In order to use less water and fossil fuel to produce and transport goods in the entire supply channel, new items are being recycled out of old ones. The earlier blog post, "Recycled Fashion Firsts," reported how, for example, the fence that once imprisoned Nelson Mandela in South Africa had been made into jewelry.

     T-shirts, bracelets, and a variety of fashion items are now used to support causes (See the blog post, "North Pole Flag."), and, despite continuing problems in countries such as Bangladesh, organizations like the Natural Resources Defense Council have been formed to make sure artisans, cottage industries, and employees in lesser developed countries work in safe/healthy conditions and are fairly compensated.

     In The Battle of Versailles, Givhan writes that designers design from what they come from. Nowadays, that can be any country or culture in the world.

Nigeria's New Beginning

It was said that General Muhammadu Buhari's election as President of Nigeria on March 31, 2015 was a repudiation of the corruption and cronyism of Goodluck Jonathan's administration. So it was, but it also showed voters are able to overcome the constitutional changes and intimidation that leaders have used to retain their positions and power. Buhari's victory was a profile in persistence, since it took him four tries and 15.4 million votes to be the first candidate to defeat an elected incumbent, since Nigeria became an independent country in 1960. To his credit, Jonathan, who lost with 13.3 million votes, kept his supporters from launching a bloody protest over the election results.

    The Buhari-Jonathan presidential race was the latest challenge in Nigeria's troubled political history until Buhari began suffering from an undisclosed illness that has kept him away from his office for long periods of treatment twice in 2017. Nigeria's new tradition of alternating eight-year presidential terms between northern Muslim leaders and southern Christians would be tested if Buhari, a northern Fulani Muslim, were defeated by another northerner who would be eligible for an eight-year term. That would keep southerners out of the presidency for 12 years.
 (Richard Bourne's book, Nigeria: A New History of a Turbulent Century, provides a good description of Nigeria since independence.)

      Buhari served as Nigeria's military head of state until he was overthrown in a 1985 coup' He was committed to protecting his people from the Boko Haram terrorists who kidnapped nearly 300 teen aged girls and killed thousands of villagers. As Boko Haram was being driven out of Gwoza in the Borno State of northeastern Nigeria, the militant Muslims massacred captured wives and old men. Local citizens expected the group's departure was only temporary. They were right. Just hours after Buhari was sworn in as Nigeria's new President on May 29, 2015, an attack by Boko Haram killed 13 people in Maiduguri, the provincial capital of northeastern Nigeria, before government troops forced the Islamic rebels to retreat. Buhari announced plans to set up a military command center in Maiduguri. Nonetheless, during the Muslim holy period of Ramadan in 2015, over 200 Nigerians were killed. Some 44 people also died in two July 6 bomb attacks in Jos, a city targeted by Boko Haram in the past. In early 2016, only a little over a month after Buhari announced Boko Haram was "technically defeated," the Islamic terrorist group killed 80 people in the village of Dalorl, near Maiduguri. A new abduction of another 100 teen aged girls by Boko Haram occurred in the northeastern Yobe state in February, 2018.

     Although Nigeria's oil and natural gas reserves, production, and exports are among the world's best, problems have plagued the industry. To counteract the loss of government revenue from collapsing crude oil prices, in October, 2015 the state-owned Nigerian National Petroleum Corporation announced plans to renegotiate contracts with oil producers in order to get a bigger share of revenue from their deepwater fields. At the same time, oil corporations, also suffering from declining crude prices, are threatening to cut development spending on new deepwater projects in Nigeria. Sagging revenue from falling oil prices is just the latest problem for a government that has faced multiple oil-related challenges: pipeline sabotage resulting in oil spills that have contaminated water, farm land, and air; uncertainty about OPEC's regulations on production; underutilized refinery capacity; lack of capital for deepwater drilling and the infrastructure needed to capture natural gas burn off; and protests by southerners who have never felt they fully participated in the wealth generated by oil fields in the Niger Delta. Bille and Ogale, fishing and farming communities in the Niger Delta, are suing Shell for failing to protect oil pipelines that have caused two oil spills in the past five years. Although Shell agreed to clean up water and land in the contaminated area, the Anglo-Dutch firm has delayed compliance.

     Out of Nigeria's 170 million population, 110 million, including college-educated young people, are said to be unemployed. With nothing to do all day and lack of funds, free time leads to pregnancies that produce even more poverty.

     The government is committed to re-energizing Nigeria's agricultural sector which was the backbone of the country's economy prior to the 1970s oil boom. The attention Akinwumi Adesina paid to the agricultural sector when he was Minister of Agriculture and Rural Development in Jonathan Goodluck's administration is credited with helping to reduce food imports by a third, to increase food production by 22 million tons, and to generate millions of jobs.  By providing electronic vouchers for purchases of fertilizer and seed from private suppliers, the administration worked to move farmers beyond subsistence farming in order to diversify the economy and reduce dependence on oil.

    As of May, 2015, Adesina, the son of a Nigerian farmer and PhD degree holder from Purdue University in the US, became the new President of the African Development Bank.

Convert Stories into Foreign Language Games

Screenwriter, Lee Sheldon, wrote a story that was incorporated into an alternative reality game where students learned Mandarin Chinese by interacting with Mandarin-speaking actors. That was just the beginning. Since then he has created plot lines for over a dozen more games. Students are excited to participate and college class attendance soared. Teachers can learn how to turn classes into games by reading Sheldon's book, The Multiplayer Classroom: Designing Coursework As a Game.

Several finalists for 2015's Children's Choice Book Awards have international and intergalactic themes that could become classroom games.

• Temple Run: Race Through Time to Unlock the Secrets of Ancient Worlds by Tracey West takes readers on a quest to uncover the clues that will lead them safely through ancient civilizations
• I Am Malala: How One Girl Stood Up for Education and Changed the World follows the Nobel Peace Prize winner as she worked to overcome obstacles to women in Pakistan
• The Return of Zita the Space Girl by Ben Hatke is an adventure that requires Zita to break out of a planet's jail

Global Search for New Antibiotics

Throughout the world, as many as 700,000 people die from drug-resistant infections each year. Since so-called superbugs have become resistant to the antibiotics that have cured cholera, pneumonia, tuberculosis, and other infections from bacteria since the 1940s, there is a two-pronged approach: 1) to reduce the overuse of antibiotics which reduce their effectiveness and 2) to find new antibiotics.

     Antibiotics can be overused unless hospitals monitor the incidence of antibiotic-resistant cases, pharmacists supervise use of antibiotics, and patients are not tested to see if their infections are bacterial or viral. On viruses, antibiotics are useless. Even when infections are caused by bacteria, conventional oral antibiotics, such as penicillin, need to be tried first to cure staph skin infections, C diff bacteria infections in the gut, bronchial infections, and urinary tract infections. Other treatments, such as more expensive daily shots and IV hookups in the hospital, need to be used sparingly and held back as a last line of defense.

     Since overuse of antibiotics contributes to their resistance, the antibiotics farmers use add to this overuse by humans through the food they eat. Because farmers have been using antibiotics as a way to stimulate faster growth of livestock and to prevent disease on factory farms where overcrowding spreads illnesses, under the Preservation of Antibiotics for Medical Treatment Act, proposed federal legislation would regulate antibiotic use on factory farms. A dozen or so manufacturers that produce antibiotics for livestock already have voluntarily agreed to change the directions on their labels to stipulate use for medicinal purposes not artificial growth.

      Once new FDA guidelines are implemented by January, 2017, a licensed veterinarian will have to supervise the use of antibiotics in livestock feed and water to treat and prevent disease and to promote growth. Since treatment of some diseases in cattle and dairy cows now requires low-level feeding of antibiotics, farmers and veterinarians are working to keep animals healthy with improved sanitation and nutrition as well as new vaccines. Pear and apple growers who spray trees to prevent bacterial blight infections also are looking for alternatives to the antibiotics now in use.

     Agricultural use of antibiotics, estimated to be 70% of all antibiotic use, has begun to cost farmers money. Denmark's ban on growth promoting animal antibiotics prevents beef imports from countries still using them. Since consumers are demanding meat and poultry free of routine antibiotic use, suppliers, such as Perdue, have stopped their use. While McDonald's plans to serve only antibiotic-free chicken in the US by the summer of 2017, consumers in other countries will not have this guarantee. Nowhere are McDonald's consumers guaranteed antibiotic free beef or pork.

     Since patients take antibiotics only for a short time, pharmaceutical companies have a greater incentive to develop other drugs rather than new antibiotics to replace the older ones that have lost their effectiveness. To stimulate research for new antibiotics, the National Institutes of Health's Center of Excellence for Translational Research (CETR) has put a $16 million grant behind the effort. When soil studies no longer uncovered new antibiotic microbes, researchers found new sources among ants, plants, and sponges in Florida, Brazil, Puerto Rico, and Hawaii. For example, the microbes in the milky white bacteria that cover some ants produce antibiotic compounds that fight different causes of infection. In the lab, scientists look for compounds with chemical structures that are different from known ones. Genomic sequencing of bacteria also helps determine whether they contain antibiotic-producing microbes. Using CETR grant money, a team of investigators headed by Dr. David Andes, chief of the division of infectious diseases at the University of Wisconsin Hospital, and Cameron Currie, a University of Wisconsin bacteriology professor, have found 15 potential new antibiotics.

     On a side note, the following are three games that teach how viruses spread:
Pandemic is a tabletop game for four players who experience success and failure as they work together to stop the spread of diseases.
Plague, Inc. is an app game where players can see graphs of how lethal contagions are considering health care systems in various countries and global travel.
Pox: Save the People is a board game that uses blue vaccinated and red infected chips.

(This post amplifies information in the earlier post, "Infection-Killing Bugs and Antibiotics.")

 

China's Corruption Crackdown, New Bank Backing, and Release of PR Activists

In case there was any doubt about China's determination to stamp out corruption, the April 2015 arrest of Zhou Yongkang, former head of the domestic secret police and the most senior member of the Chinese Communist Party to face corruption charges, should dispel that notion. Assets from Zhou's family members and associates totaling $14.5 billion were seized, and 300 of his relatives and allies have been  taken into custody or questioned. Zhou, and earlier Bo Xilai, were believed to have been investigated by the special investigation team composed of cross-agency law enforcement officials that can only be authorized by Beijing's senior leadership to investigate high ranking Communist Party members.

     In the book, The Little Red Guard, mentioned in the earlier blog post, "See the World," model workers of older Chinese generations felt betrayed by a new corrupt system that rewarded friends and relatives of Communist Party officials with promotions and raises. Although President Xi Jinping was said to be worried that the extent of corruption revealed at a trial of Zhou would undermine public faith in China's Communist Party and alienate other high level party members who fear their own corruption charges, Zhou was sentenced to life in prison in June, 2015. China also has added Wang Tianpu, president of Sinopec, China's state-owned Petroleum & Chemical Corporation, to its list of corruption suspects. In October, 2015, Sam Pa, who heads the Queensway group in Hong Kong and who has ties to China's intelligence service, was detained in Beijing. Queensway is an active deal maker in Africa and North Korea. In March, 2016, HSBC froze $87 million of Sam Pa's assets.

     Following the explosion of the Rui Hai International Logistics's chemical warehouse that killed over 100 and damaged 17,000 homes in Tianjin, ten Chinese officials were detained on suspicion of safety violations. Two Rui Hai executives admitted using political connections to get waivers that allowed the warehouse to be build closer to a residential area than allowed by law, and the warehouse had been cited for safety violations in the past.

     China's corruption crackdown already has put politician and powerful Chongqing party boss, Bo Xilai, in prison for life and given his wife, Gu Kailai, a suspended death sentence for poisoning British businessman, Neil Heywood, who may have been murdered for wanting too big a cut for helping get the family funds of Bo and Gu out of China. On July 28, 2015, when Man Mingan, the Chinese prosecutor in Gu's murder trial, was found hanged in his Anhui province apartment, police launched an investigation into the circumstances. In another strange development, China uncovered a fake anti-corruption unit that had its own interrogation room.

     The anti-corruption campaign has caused China's big rollers to flee Macau's casinos for Cambodia, where, as described in the earlier post, "Let's Visit China," they hope to do their gambling under the radar of investigators. Consequently, Macau's investors, who have seen their revenue drop, have decided to follow the Las Vegas model and give the island a more family-friendly image by adding a $2.3 billion theme park to a new casino.

     Meanwhile, a new Chinese-backed Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB), which has won the approval of the World Bank, has been founded. The bank's president, Jin Liqun, was among the world's 100 Most Influential People selected by TIME magazine in 2016.  AIIB attracted 57 prospective founding members, including Singapore, India, Thailand, and even the UK (but not Japan, Australia, South Korea and the US, the more developed countries that control the rival Asian Development Bank.) Hoping the UK can cash in on billions of trade deals with China, British Prime Minister Cameron gave Chinese President Xi the royal treatment, including a ride in a horse-driven carriage, when he visited the UK in October, 2015. Although President Obama cautioned the UK about developing close ties with China and initially opposed Britain's participation in the AIIB, he eventually suggested the bank may have a positive impact on emerging markets. By 2017, the AIIB had 80 member nations including Britain ad Australia. The Asian Development Bank now works with AIIB to fund energy, transport, and infrastructure projects.

     The July, 2015 purchase of the former Milan headquarters of Italian bank, UniCredit, by the Chinese Fosun group headed by Guo Guangchang was just the latest in a series of recent Chinese investments in Italy, including Italian banks and companies, such as tire maker Pirelli and luxury goods manufacturer, Caruso.

     After being held for a month, China released five women's rights advocates who have a flair for gaining public attention. They were arrested in March when they prepared to distribute posters and stickers protesting domestic violence. Earlier, they had gained attention for the same cause by parading through the streets in bloody wedding gowns. The women who were charged with creating a disturbance could still be sentenced up to three years in prison, if they fail to report their movements to police and to make themselves available for questioning at any time.